Questions, answered.

We accept walk-ins for estimates Monday through Friday between 7:30am and 5:00pm. No appointment needed for a free estimate.

For drop-off appointments – when you're actually leaving the car with us – calling ahead helps us schedule the parts and bay you'll need. Most drop-offs we can get on the calendar within a week.

490 South Telegraph Road in Pontiac, MI. We're on the east side of Telegraph, two minutes north of Square Lake Road.

Customer parking is in front of the building. Look for the dark exterior with the gold signage.

Yes. We use spectrophotometer-based color matching against your factory paint code and blend the new paint into adjacent panels rather than masking at the seam. That blend technique is the difference between a panel that 'matches' and one that's invisible.

On pearl and three-stage colors, we mix a spray-out test card and check it under multiple light sources before anything touches the car.

OEM parts by default: fenders, hoods, bumpers, structural pieces. If your insurance policy requires aftermarket or LKQ (recycled) parts, we'll tell you exactly what's being installed before any work starts.

You always have the option to pay the difference out of pocket to upgrade to OEM. We'll lay out the price gap and the trade-offs so you can decide.

Yes, including pearl, metallic, and three-stage finishes. We pull your factory color code, scan the actual panel with a spectrophotometer to account for fade and weathering, and mix in our booth.

Spray-out test cards get checked against the car under multiple light sources before any work begins. If the test card doesn't match the rest of the car, we re-mix.

A spot repair blends new paint into adjacent panels to make a small repair invisible. Fast, cost-effective, and the right call for most collision and stone-chip work.

A full respray strips the entire car and starts over. We use it for restorations, severe accumulated damage, or color changes. Costs more and takes longer, but the finish is fresh end-to-end.

Strip to bare metal, repair or replace any rust-affected panels, weld any structural damage, prime, paint in our downdraft booth, bake-cure the finish, then reassemble with new seals, badges, and trim.

Timeline is typically 4–10 weeks depending on the platform and how much rust we find once everything's apart. We send weekly photo updates so you know exactly where the car is in the process.

For full restorations, yes: chemical strip followed by mechanical sand, then etching primer.

We don't cut corners on rust treatment because hidden rust always comes back through the new paint within a few years, and at that point you're paying for the whole job twice.

No. In Michigan, you choose the shop that repairs your car, not your insurer. Your insurance can recommend a "preferred" or "direct-repair" shop, but they can't require you to use one.

We work with every major carrier. They pay us directly and we handle the paperwork, photos, and supplements on your behalf.

Not directly because of which shop you use. Whether a claim raises your rates depends on fault, your policy, and your carrier's underwriting. Call your agent if you're unsure.

We can help you decide whether to file or pay out of pocket once we've estimated the damage. For small repairs that fall under your deductible, paying directly often makes more sense than filing.

Most jobs land between 5 and 14 business days. The variable is parts: a common fender that's in-stock locally ships overnight; a Tesla rear quarter panel or a niche European bumper cover might take three weeks.

We give you a realistic window after the teardown inspection, not before. Hidden damage behind the bumper cover can change the scope significantly.

Our workmanship – meaning anything we did wrong (paint adhesion failure, panel alignment drift, refinish defects) we fix for free, for as long as you own the vehicle.

It doesn't cover new damage, third-party repairs done after we delivered the car, or normal wear and tear. The warranty transfers to a new owner once if you sell the car.